Hyaluronic Acid, AHA, BHA, & PHA’s!
Hyaluronic Acid: is a non resurfacing acid or in other words it does not exfoliate like AHA BHA & PHA’s. It is a humectant and attracts water so it greatly boosts skins moisture.
It is a substance in the body joints and eyes. Lip filler in plastic surgery and touted as fountain of youth in anti-aging. Webmd says no evidence that taking by mouth or applying to skin prevents aging.
https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-1062/hyaluronic-acid
Some good Hyaluronic Acid products are: The Buffet by The Ordinary
https://www.sephora.com/product/the-ordinary-deciem-buffet-P427420
Hyaluronic 2% +B5
I am enjoying using both The Buffet and Hyaluronic 2% +B5. I find them moisturizing and they work well for me. I use them under my moisturizer.
Trader Joe’s also carries a good hyaluronic acid. https://www.traderjoes.com/fearless-flyer/article/4298
AHA Alpha Hydroxy Acid- are natural acids found in food: citric (citrus fruits), glycolic (sugar cane), lactic (sour milk & tomato juice) malic (apples) tactic (grapes).
AHA’s are good for dry skin, wrinkled skin, or normal to dry skin.
“Alpha hydroxy acids seem to work by removing the top layers of dead skin cells. They can also increase the thickness of deeper layers of skin, promoting firmness.”
May cause: mild skin irritation, redness, swelling, itching, and skin discoloration. 10% or less concentration is “likely safe” according to webmd.
Lactic acid example product: Good Genes Sunday Riley (lactic acid)
Lactic acid is gentler than glycolic acid. Can use 3-4 times per week. I occasionally use this product at night before bed. In the beginning of use I found it tingled, but with continuous use that went away and that made me wonder if it was working as well. I did find it to be moisturizing.
Glycolic acid example: Best for normal to dry skin. Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution by The Ordinary
Can be left on overnight. 2-3 times per week is a good recommended use. I would proceed with caution and go slowly when using because it can irritate the skin. Product states: This formula should not be used on sensitive, peeling, or compromised skin.
Mandelic Acid example: (Also contains glycolic acid)
Exuviance Performance Peel AP25
https://www.dermstore.com/product_Performance+Peel+AP25_23528.htm
Azelaic Acid example: Azelaid Acid Suspension 10% The Ordinary
*Sensitive skin: Alpha hydroxy acids can worsen skin conditions by causing skin irritation and removal of the top layer of skin cells.
https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-977/alpha-hydroxy-acids
BHA Beta Hydroxy Acid- or salicylic acid exfoliates, unclogs pores, helps with acne, color and texture of skin. Works well with oily acne prone skin
types. Is attracted to oils, oil soluble or oleophilic.
Paula’s Choice 2% BHA
https://www.dermstore.com/product_SKIN+PERFECTING+2+BHA+Liquid+Exfoliant_54641.htm
https://www.webmd.com/beauty/qa/what-is-betahydroxy-acid
I felt that this product was too strong for my sensitive skin. It seems to work well and was not irritating for a friend that had oily skin.
PHA- poly hydroxy acids are similar to AHAs in that they are chemical exfoliants, but they are larger molecules and don’t penetrate the skin as deep as AHA’s or BHA’s. So they are less irritating to the skin and a good option for those who found AHA or BHA
too harsh. Examples of PHA’s are: gluconolactone, galactose, and lactobionic acid.
PHA can be used for all skin types but particularly good for sensitive skin types that found AHA/BHA too strong and for dry skin as it acts like a humectant and attracts water.
Product Example:
Exuviance Soothing Toning Lotion gently exfoliates and hydrates. Alcohol free and for delicate skin. PH balanced and dermatologist developed / tested. I think it smells deliciously sweet. I am really enjoying this product. It has not irritated my skin. I use
it during the day after I wash my face and before serums and moisturizer.
https://www.dermstore.com/product_Soothing+Toning+Lotion_1366.htm
https://www.allure.com/story/what-are-phas-polyhydroxy-acids
References:
https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-1062/hyaluronic-acid
https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-977/alpha-hydroxy-acids
https://www.webmd.com/beauty/qa/what-is-betahydroxy-acid
https://www.allure.com/story/what-are-phas-polyhydroxy-acids
WHICH ACID IS RIGHT FOR YOUR SKIN AND SKIN PROBLEMS? – Nadine Baggott
This is a good how to educational video! (I highly recommended you watch this first before proceeding.) I am referring to the video link in the pink box below. Please watch first!
Exfoliating Acids in Skincare Routine: Beginner’s Guide to Chemical Exfoliation (AHA & BHA)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yzaei1orosM
*Disclaimer: I am not a professional. I do my own research and use all products at my own risk. I suggest that you also proceed with caution and use these products at your own risk. I would always consult my doctor, pharmacist, or dermatologist before I use any new products for their professional advice. I suggest you do the same. This content does not claim to cure or treat any condition or diseases. I have cited references for some of the information. Some content is my expressed opinion based on my experience. It is the consumers right and responsibility to decide what products to purchase and use (at their own risk). Read the product labels carefully.
Lady Esther 